Whitewashing and color washing of building surfaces is necessary for both hygienic and aesthetic reasons. In order to obtain a clean, clean and uniform surface, surfaces such as concrete, masonry, or plaster must be prepared.
Painting of masonry, concrete, and plaster, and similar calcareous surfaces is not only carried out for hygienic or aesthetic reasons, but also for waterproofing and for the chemical attacks of an industrial atmosphere contaminated with fumes. corrosive.
Essential Tips For whitewash
1. Surfaces that are to be repeated the same color wash should be dusted to remove dust and dirt. All loose lime deposits and other foreign bodies must also be removed. If there is strong scaling, the whole surface should be scraped to clean. This also applies if a colored wash is to be applied to a surface that has already been whitewashed.
2. For surfaces to which a different color finish is to be applied, the old color finish on the surfaces must be completely removed prior to the application of whitewash or other color finish. The surface should be prepared by brushing or scraping or any other suitable means to produce a clean surface and dust, dirt, etc.
3. Old surfaces spoiled by smoke soot are scraped with steel wire brushes or steel scrapers. -The surface should be brushed to remove dust and dirt and washed with clean water.
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4. Oil and grease stains should be removed with a suitable chemical and surfaces scrubbed with wire brushes.
5. All non-loadbearing parts of the finish coat should be removed in full depth at right angles to the full depth of the plaster and re-coated after the masonry joints have been properly scraped. These parts are moistened and left to dry. You get a coat of whitewash. All unnecessary nails should be removed and the holes and cracks are filled with lime plaster or plaster of Paris to make the surface smooth.
6. If a mold infestation is detected while whitewashing old surfaces, treat them as follows.
Mold and moss should be removed by scraping with a steel scraper and an ammoniacal copper solution consisting of 15 g of copper carbonate dissolved in 60 ml of ammonia in 500 ml of water, applied to the surface and left well dry before applying paint, washed, or whitewashed. An alternative to treatment with an ammoniacal copper solution can be a 2 percent solution of sodium pentachlorophenate in water.
7. Local areas affected by efflorescence are first treated as described below, then whitewashed or stained.
The efflorescence will last as long as there is enough water in the structural layers to advance the soluble salts, and it is useless in the sea! moisture through the paint film on the surface.
Dry brushing seems to be the only way to remove efflorescence. Efflorescence should not be removed by washing with water, as this may bring some salts back into the pores upon re-drying. Treating an old wall with waterproof silicone often stops efflorescence because liquids block the passage of moisture. In the event of efflorescence of rising saline solutions by capillary action from the basement, an effective barrier against capillarity can only be created by using bituminous or metal joints in the above-ground walls.
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